Heritage of colors: Textile dyeing in the Low Countries (17th century): understanding historical technology and ensuing conservation issues. 01/10/2022 - 30/09/2026

Abstract

This research focuses on the historical technology used to dye textiles in the heydays of the textile production in the low countries (i.e. 16th-17th century). Being the most important industrial sector from the middle ages up to and including the first industrial revolution, the manufacture and dyeing of textiles plays a prominent role in the history of technology. Dyeing must have been crucial for any impact craftsmen had on the scientific revolution, as it involved intimate knowledge on a broad range of raw materials and chemical processes in order to obtain a wash and light-fast finished product. However, until now, literature mostly focused on the economy and trade of textiles, while the underlying technology that was necessary for its production was largely neglected. Therefore, we propose a multifaceted approach, involving human and natural sciences, that will bring to the surface ideas that are latent in strictly text based approaches. In particular, we propose expanding the knowledge on practical dyeing customs by deciphering and assessing historical recipes, followed by the reproduction of historical materials and this in order to (a) understand all aspects of the process of making and (b) study degradation parameters. The latter is done through artificial ageing and testing of the reproduced materials. Finally, the characterization (by chemical analysis) of historical well-dated textiles will allow evaluating how closely practical dyeing and recipes are aligned.

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Project type(s)

  • Research Project