Research Natalia Ortega Saez

Abstract

This project will reconstruct and contextualise coloured marquetry on late-17th- and 18th-century furniture from the North and South Netherlandish regions by chemically characterising their photodegraded monochromatic surfaces. The study of the marquetry on an 18th-century South Netherlandish table from the collections of the KMKG-MRAH revealed that its polychromic splendour remained unnoticed due to the heavily faded colourants. Further study of the KMKG-MRAH collection revealed three additional pieces of visually monochromatic furniture that were likely coloured. Existing scholarship reveals that the tradition of 'painting on wood' in these regions remains unstudied, which in turn has resulted in misinterpretations of the furniture's original aesthetic, historical, and domestic significance. The study starts with an art-technical analysis of 17th- and 18th-century art-technical sources for colouring wood, which will be parsed into a relational dataset linking recipes, materials, techniques, and surviving objects (cf. the current FED-tWIN HOME-AGE database). Selected recipes will be experimentally reconstructed as mockups, and will undergo artificial UV-based ageing under stable climatological conditions. The mockups are then characterised at defined intervals using advanced imaging and spectroscopic methods (FTIR, XRD, macro-XRF) from the ARCHES and AXIS research groups. The data from the chemical characterisation obtained from both the mockups and the objects will be consolidated into a reference database designed to clarify the relationship between the reconstructions and the studied objects. Based on these relational insights, additional furniture from the Royal Museum of Art & History (Brussels), the Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, and the Wallace Collection in London will be examined. Through this methodology the project aims to digitally reconstruct the original polychrome colouring of faded marquetries and gain insights into their historical domestic context. The expected outcomes extend beyond an historical aesthetical reconstruction and the contextualisation: the project will generate fundamental knowledge that will serve future research project proposals, such as the development of safe cleaning and stabilisation methods for these surfaces without removing the remaining material of the faded colourants, which constitutes the only tangible evidence of a once colourful past.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Cattersel Vincent
• Co-promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia
• Co-promoter: Van der Snickt Geert
• Fellow: Van Meenen Vadim

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/03/2026 - 28/02/2030

Funding

• BOF

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project involved the examination and conservation of two architectural models from the collection of the Flemish Architecture Institute (VAi) under the supervision of Davine Maesen. The primary objective was to identify and assess existing damage and deterioration phenomena and to develop appropriate treatment strategies aimed at restoring mechanical stability, facilitating cleaning, and ensuring the long-term preservation of the objects. The student responsible for the project first conducted preliminary research into the materials, construction techniques, and condition of the models. Based on these findings, a range of treatment options was developed and presented to the VAi for discussion. As the project was largely research-driven, it was not possible to guarantee a definitive solution for all identified problems and damage phenomena, particularly with regard to the cleaning of the objects.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)25/09/2025 - 30/09/2027

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Plastics in Belgian art museums, how should they be conserved? Along with their entry as new art materials, they brought new challenges on both a technical and art historical level. International research projects in heritage collections already addressed the technical problems to the identification of the materials and their rapid deterioration, resulting in identification tools and preventive conservation strategies. What remained underexposed was the artist's intention and signification of the material, in other words the art historical and philosophical aspect within conservation sciences. Through three-dimensional case studies of plastics from Belgian art collections, it bridges the two fields, focusing on the artist's practices. First, a literature and documentary study, complemented by artist interviews, contextualises the artworks and collections, and interprets the artist's intention and meaning behind the used materials. Furthermore, a survey in the participating collections maps collection management practices. Third, technical research indicates the conditions of the cases and enhances insights about the effects of the art materials on the artwork, the surrounding works and the museum. Finally, the holistic conservation approach harmonises the art historical and technical results into a protocol, that museums can implement in their collection management policies.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Verreyke Hélène
• Co-promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia
• Fellow: De Greef Margaux

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/11/2024 - 31/10/2026

Funding

• FWO

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

The objective is to develop an Art Conservation education and research program at Bahir Dar University in Ethiopia alongside the already existing Master Heritage. Two Ethiopian PhD students will be hired to build the course to Ethiopian standards. One of our main challenges is capacity building and to stress the importance of this challenge of maintaining sustainable training and involving all stakeholders in this process. During this five-year project we will build a strong and long-term relationship.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia
• Co-promoter: De Kock Tim
• Co-promoter: De Vis Kristel
• Co-promoter: Verreyke Hélène

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/09/2022 - 31/08/2027

Funding

• FED. INST.

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

In this project Noortje Cools supervised student of the masterprogram performing a conservation treatment on five statues from the "Nativity Scene" sculpture group at the Sint-Jan-in-de-Olie Church in Vremde.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)23/06/2026 - 30/09/2026

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Under the supervision of Anja Smets, two master's students undertook the conservation treatment of two garments from the MoMu collection. The first project involved a children's dress requiring cleaning and consolidation. The second focused on a dress from the 1920s that had undergone advanced degradation and was therefore fully mounted onto a silk support fabric to preserve its structural integrity.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/03/2026 - 15/07/2026

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project was carried out under the supervision of Lucy 't Hart and involves the conservation treatment of four liturgical candlesticks exhibiting signs of surface contamination, corrosion, and structural damage. The surfaces of the objects are covered with dirt, dust, and residues from previous polishing treatments, while irregular corrosion has affected the material in several areas. In addition, some components have become deformed or detached, compromising the stability and readability of the objects. The treatment begins with an extensive preliminary investigation, including the study of materials and manufacturing techniques, as well as art-historical research into the candlesticks' provenance, function, and context. Existing damage and deterioration phenomena are systematically documented and assessed. Based on these findings, a treatment proposal is developed and supported by relevant testing procedures. The conservation treatment includes the cleaning of the objects, the removal of varnish coatings where necessary, the physical restoration of deformed or detached elements where feasible, and the treatment of corrosion products. Finally, an appropriate protective coating is applied to help prevent further deterioration. All interventions are thoroughly documented in a treatment report, supplemented with recommendations for preventive conservation and future collection management. The final treatment report is submitted to the owners of the objects for approval.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)30/10/2025 - 31/08/2026

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project, carried out under the supervision of Robbe Vanmassenhove, focuses on the conservation-restoration of two maritime heritage objects: a cased half-model of the motor vessel Victoria and a ship model representing a pilot cutter. The project combines materials-based and art-historical research with practical conservation treatment aimed at improving the condition, stability, and long-term preservation of both objects. The cased half-model of the Victoria consists of a wooden display case with glass panels containing a ship model made of wood and metal with a polychrome finish. The pilot cutter model is composed of wood, metal, textile, and glass elements, also featuring a polychrome surface. Both objects exhibit significant surface contamination due to the accumulation of dust and dirt. In addition, several components have become broken, detached, or plastically deformed, affecting their structural integrity and visual readability. The project begins with a comprehensive preliminary investigation, including the study of materials and manufacturing techniques, art-historical research into the origin, use, and context of the models, and a systematic assessment of their condition and damage. Based on these findings, treatment proposals are developed and evaluated through appropriate testing procedures. The conservation-restoration treatment includes surface cleaning, the stabilization and reattachment of detached elements where possible, the physical correction of deformations, and the reconstruction of missing components when necessary. All interventions are carefully documented in a treatment report, supplemented with recommendations for preventive conservation and long-term care. The final treatment proposal and treatment report are presented to the owners for review and approval.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)18/09/2025 - 30/09/2026

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project involves the conservation and restoration of five stained-glass panels depicting various historic guild representations, including the panels St. Michael's Guild, St. Sebastian's Guild, St. Anthony's Guild, St. George Slaying the Dragon, and Saint Adrian. The treatments are carried out in consultation with the client and will be further refined throughout the 2025-2026 academic year based on research findings and evolving insights. The project aims to ensure the structural stability, visual readability, and long-term preservation of the stained-glass panels. To achieve this, the current condition of the objects is first assessed, and appropriate conservation and restoration strategies are determined. The treatment focuses on stabilizing the panels through releading where necessary, the installation of supporting structures such as copper frames or saddle bars, and the repair of fractures. In addition, cleaning tests are conducted to determine suitable cleaning methods for both glass and lead surfaces. Damage to the various panels is addressed through the bonding of cracked glass and, where required, the reconstruction of losses using mouth-blown glass and traditional glazing and glass-painting techniques. Particular attention is given to the Saint Adrian panel, where non-original repair leads are removed, replaced with a historically appropriate lead profile, and fracture zones are consolidated using high-quality epoxy resins. Depending on the nature of the damage, retouching is carried out to improve the visual coherence of the compositions. In addition to the practical conservation-restoration treatment, a theoretical concept is developed for the safe packaging and long-term storage of the panels. All research findings, treatment decisions, and interventions are thoroughly documented in a digital conservation-restoration report. This report not only records the treatment of the objects but also provides recommendations for future management, preventive conservation, and the sustainable preservation of these valuable stained-glass panels.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)15/09/2025 - 14/09/2026

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project involves the technical material analysis, art-historical research, and subsequent conservation of two heritage objects from a museum collection: a historical flag (inv. no. VM2004.0903.001) and a Poesje puppet (inv. no. AF.1954.002.030). The treatments aim to enhance the physical stability of the objects, prevent further deterioration, and ensure their long-term preservation. For both objects, a comprehensive preliminary investigation is carried out to study the materials, manufacturing techniques, current condition, and historical context. The results of this research form the basis for the development of a treatment proposal, which is further refined in consultation with the museum team. The treatment of the flag focuses on the removal of surface dirt, the correction of distortions, and the consolidation of vulnerable areas. Appropriate cleaning methods are applied, followed by the humidification and flattening of the textile and the application of a supportive silk backing fabric. Detached fragments are secured, while the existing metal threads are cleaned and stabilized. The conservation of the Poesje puppet includes the treatment of its textile, wooden, and metal components. Following cleaning and, where necessary, the disassembly of textile elements, damaged areas are consolidated using supportive silk fabrics. In addition, the wooden and metal components are cleaned, the polychromy is consolidated, and technical documentation of the object's construction and costume is produced. Although the creation of a replica is not part of the treatment, patterns of the costume are recorded to support future research and potential reconstruction efforts. All research findings, treatment decisions, and conservation interventions are carefully documented in a digital conservation-restoration report. The report is supplemented with recommendations for preventive conservation, aftercare, and future management, thereby helping to ensure the long-term preservation of both objects.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)27/02/2025 - 01/07/2025

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project concerns the conservation of an outdoor limestone sculpture from the garden of the Permeke Museum in Jabbeke. The object, a limestone statue of a saint, exhibits various forms of deterioration related to prolonged exposure to outdoor conditions. The principal deterioration phenomena include biological growth, surface soiling, gypsum crust formation, surface powdering, material loss, weathering of the stone surface, and the loss or breakage of sculptural elements. The treatment begins with a comprehensive preliminary investigation, during which the material composition, production techniques, and state of preservation of the sculpture are studied. In addition, art-historical research is conducted into the object's origin, function, and context. A systematic condition and damage assessment forms the basis for the development of a treatment proposal, supported by relevant testing procedures. The conservation treatment primarily focuses on the removal of surface deposits and biological growth through appropriate cleaning techniques. Subsequently, weakened areas are consolidated to restore the structural cohesion of the stone material. Where necessary, cracks and fractures are bonded and injected to prevent further deterioration. Depending on the results of the preliminary investigation and the treatment objectives, additional plastic repairs may be carried out and losses may be filled to improve the sculpture's stability and visual legibility. All research findings, treatment decisions, and conservation interventions are thoroughly documented in a conservation report. This report is supplemented with recommendations for preventive conservation, future management, storage, and transportation, thereby supporting the long-term preservation of the object.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)14/02/2025 - 30/09/2025

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Within this project, an art-historical and material-technical preliminary study will be made of two 19th-century fans from the Fashion Museum in Antwerp. In a second phase, the fans will be conserved.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)15/10/2024 - 30/06/2025

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Restoration treatment under supervision of Lucy 'T Hart, as part of training component Handling Complex Objects. Material-technical research and treatment of collection Nicky van Damme - 121 copper and zinc engravings and etchings - (1950-2010), numbered PK.KP.03360 to PK.KP.03480

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)08/10/2024 - 01/07/2025

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Mary Visits Her Cousin Elizabeth The painting depicting Mary Visits Her Cousin Elizabeth is a copy of a composition by the Flemish master Jacob Jordaens. The original work, originally housed in the church of Rupelmonde, is now located in the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Lyon. At least three versions of The Visitation are known to exist. The painting described here is believed to date from the late 18th or early 19th century. In 1815, it was provided by the French state as a replacement for the original artwork, which was taken as war booty during the Napoleonic Wars. The piece is executed in oil on canvas and reflects the rich tradition of religious art in the style of Jordaens.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)03/10/2024 - 30/09/2025

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Drafting preliminary research and restoration of garden sculptures originating from the French garden of the Bouvigne castle estate. This project includes both a material-technical and art-historical preliminary study followed by a proposal and a conservation treatment of the garden statues. Guidelines for optimal conservation are also worked out. The project will be supervised by Noortje Cools

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/03/2024 - 15/02/2025

Funding

• INTERNAT.

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project includes both a material-technical and art-historical preliminary study, as well as the restoration of three 19th-century silk parasols from the MOMU Antwerp collection. The objects are in poor condition, they will be carefully dismantled, with damaged parts restored and reinforced through lining with a new silk support.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)26/02/2024 - 30/06/2024

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Within this project, preliminary research and conservation treatment will be carried out on the following objects. Two wooden plinths with Boulle marquetry (Inv.O.X.210.1 and O.X.210.2) under the supervision of Mr R. Vanmassenhove Faience birdcage (Inv. Gf.1947.1) & tureen in the shape of a chicken (Inv. Gf.1911.70.2) under the supervision of Ms S. Bauvois

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)22/02/2024 - 15/09/2024

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

A preliminary study and conservation treatment are being carried out on the bust of Bacchus, a work by Lucas Faydherbe. This study consists of two main components: a material-technical analysis and an art-historical investigation. The material-technical component focuses on the physical condition of the object. This involves a detailed examination of the materials and techniques used in its creation. The art-historical investigation emphasizes the context of the artwork. It examines the bust's place within Faydherbe's oeuvre, its stylistic characteristics, and its historical significance. This research may be further supported by archival studies and comparisons with other works by the same artist or from the same period. Based on the insights gained from both parts of the preliminary study, a well-informed decision is made regarding the conservation treatment. The aim of this treatment is to preserve the artwork in a stable and as authentic a condition as possible. This may involve performing restorations, such as repairing damages or stabilizing fragile areas, while respecting the original materials and aesthetic integrity. The entire process is overseen by Noortje Cools.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)12/02/2024 - 15/02/2025

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Preliminary Research and Conservation Treatment of Plaster Sculptures and a Silver Monstrance This project involves comprehensive preliminary research and conservation treatment of two distinct objects: a series of plaster sculptures with polychrome finishes and a silver monstrance with gilded components. Plaster Sculptures The plaster sculptures exhibit mainly impact damage, material loss, and flaking of the painted layer. Additionally, some parts are missing, and certain fragments are broken. The research focuses on assessing the condition of both the structural base and the polychrome layers, with the aim of stabilizing and restoring the objects where necessary. Silver Monstrance The silver monstrance is covered in dust and dirt and shows traces of paint on its surface. Localized corrosion in the form of copper chlorides is present, and some components are deformed. The research aims to identify the causes of these issues and implement a sustainable conservation treatment. Both objects will be conserved under the guidance of Lucy 't Hart and Noortje Cools.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/12/2023 - 01/12/2024

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Preliminary examination and treatment of the following objects - Ceramic stove under the supervision of Ms S Bauvois, - Two silk banners under the supervision of Ms N Ortega, - Metal Ensign under the supervision of Ms L 'T Hart,

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/12/2023 - 01/11/2024

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Material-technical research and restoration treatment of object I.X.18, a dish warmer in silver by master J.M. - Conservation treatment and packaging of 60 medals, within the framework of the module Cleaning by 2nd Bachelor students of the course Conservation-Restoration; - Preliminary examination and treatment of object 'Relief in alabaster' and 'Mayor A. Max in plaster with finishing coat'.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)14/02/2023 - 30/09/2023

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Material study and restoration treatment mural 'Luxembourg' from the winter garden of Our Lady of Wavre. A material-technical and art-historical preliminary study will be carried out. The conservation treatment will be carried out in situ by a master conservation student under the supervision of Mrs Noorjte Cools.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/02/2023 - 01/02/2024

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Art historical and material preliminary examination of following objects: Inventory number / insurance value: ST503 object title: Jak Inventory number / insured value: MVT 617 object title: Dress Inventory number / insurance value: T12/1251C object title: skirt Inventory number / insurance value: T82/118 object title: jacket owner: Antwerp Fashion Museum

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)29/01/2023 - 30/06/2023

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

- Art historical preliminary research - Material investigation - Material survey and condition report - Inventory of possible interventions - Conservation & restoration treatment of/for 6 fans with inventory numbers: 66.44.2 - MVT21 - MVT20 - S1678 - T11/68 - T84-78

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/01/2023 - 30/06/2024

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Preliminary examination and conservation treatment of a round arch from the collection of the Maagden House. The round arch is examined both art-historically and material-wise. The stone type is identified from the macroscopic features and literature research. The polychromy is examined with P-XRF. A value analysis is also performed and a condition report is prepared. This will lead to a conservation proposal and final conservation treatment.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)20/11/2022 - 01/04/2024

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This research focuses on the historical technology used to dye textiles in the heydays of the textile production in the low countries (i.e. 16th-17th century). Being the most important industrial sector from the middle ages up to and including the first industrial revolution, the manufacture and dyeing of textiles plays a prominent role in the history of technology. Dyeing must have been crucial for any impact craftsmen had on the scientific revolution, as it involved intimate knowledge on a broad range of raw materials and chemical processes in order to obtain a wash and light-fast finished product. However, until now, literature mostly focused on the economy and trade of textiles, while the underlying technology that was necessary for its production was largely neglected. Therefore, we propose a multifaceted approach, involving human and natural sciences, that will bring to the surface ideas that are latent in strictly text based approaches. In particular, we propose expanding the knowledge on practical dyeing customs by deciphering and assessing historical recipes, followed by the reproduction of historical materials and this in order to (a) understand all aspects of the process of making and (b) study degradation parameters. The latter is done through artificial ageing and testing of the reproduced materials. Finally, the characterization (by chemical analysis) of historical well-dated textiles will allow evaluating how closely practical dyeing and recipes are aligned.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia
• Co-promoter: De Munck Bert
• Co-promoter: Van der Snickt Geert
• Fellow: Lupatini Emile

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/10/2022 - 30/09/2026

Funding

• BOF

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Although silk, due to its superior qualities, has been a high-end material since its earliest use, this biopolymer is highly prone to environmental degradation. In the 19th c., a treatment with metals salts was introduced for dyeing and increasing weight. The presence of these reactive substances in close proximity to the vulnerable base material resulted in a significant number of degrading silk objects in present-day heritage collections. As to date no conservation treatment proved effective, metal-induced silk degradation is a major concern for museums. This research aims at understanding, preventing and treating affected objects by combining the partners' expertise on chemical analysis, historical technology, collection management and conservation treatment. We propose unraveling the degradation pathways and assessing the influence of various harmful internal and external parameters. This will be done by producing self-synthetized and artificially aged equivalents of historical material, followed by their chemical characterization. The validity of the insights obtained on these 'mock-ups' will be benchmarked by analysis of a number of historical study objects. The results will be incorporated into a hands-on decision tool for the everyday collection management of a museum, via the development of a 'damage function'. Finally, the aptness of two enzyme treatments, recently developed for industry, will be evaluated for the consolidation of degrading historical silk fabrics.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Van der Snickt Geert
• Co-promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/01/2022 - 31/12/2025

Funding

• FWO

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

A missing jacket button, a brightly coloured fitted dress, a hidden pocket in a waistcoat, a dress with full leg-of-mutton sleeves, and a custom wool suit: what stories do these garments tell? The dresses, hats, jewellery, and shoes at the Fashion Museum Hasselt were carefully chosen, worn, and cherished by their owners and are intimately linked to memories, emotions, and adventures. They form a tangible testament to individual histories and lives lived. For DRESS.CODE., the Fashion Museum Hasselt delved deep into its extensive archives in search of these hidden narratives.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/09/2020 - 30/09/2020

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This research will focus on Conste des Ververs a unique and rather unknown Flemish dyers manuscript kept in the archives of Leuven. Dated 1619-1623 and written by Henricus Coghen a dyer who lived and worked in Leuven. Wool silk, linen and feathers were the materials to be dyed. Human and natural sciences will be involved unravelling the research on the origin of the dyeing techniques used in early seventeenth century in Brabant, Leuven. In order to better understand the used techniques, ingredients and materiality. The manuscript will be transcribed and the historical recipes will be reconstructed. This project focusses on the origins and dyeing techniques used in the manuscript. Relations between the manuscript Conste des Ververs and an existing recipe corpus from fifteenth to seventeenth European recipes books will be explored. This will enable to shed a light on the circulation of knowledge in the written and printed historical recipes during the seventeenth century. Although a substantial part of this research will focus on the historical making processes and the partly forgotten source materials and techniques that were known by craftsman. This will be done by 're-working' the transcribed recipes from the manuscript Conste des Ververs. This research wants to generate and address salient research questions that would not have been raised by text-based analysis alone. The purpose of this study is to understand the process of making, and the partly forgotten source materials and techniques, by unravelling historical recipes and reconstruct them in order to understand technique and materiality. In addition this method of working develops a new methodology and procedure to study historical coloured textile materials.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/07/2020 - 31/12/2021

Funding

• BOF

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Conservation and research of two nineteenth century banners. This project focusses on the preservation and future deterioration and damage of two flags from the Sint-Joris guild. Both flags are made of silk and are extremely fragile therefore they require a conservation treatment.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/10/2019 - 30/06/2021

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Work: Preliminary discipline textile Domeain: Castle Gaasbeek Adress: Kasteelstraat 40 1750 Gaasbeek, building number: P23010 Number: 2019/HFB/OBW/ B00234 Material and technical research of valuable textiles textiles. Conservation advise for tapestries, chimney textiles, curtain caps and wall coverings in the castle of Gaasbeek. This preliminary research consist in a material description and advice for conservation. Following textiles were studied, 12 tapestries, 3 Chimney textiles, 6 curtain caps and 3 wall coverings.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)03/04/2019 - 31/12/2019

Funding

• VL. MIN.

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Conservation and material research two 19th century banners. One banner is painted. In the first place a material and historical research will be caried out by the students. The identification and the morphology of the silk fibres will be investigated with the optical microscope. The silk and the painted parts in the second banner will be cleaned and fragile parts will be supported. A tube will be provided to store the unpainted banner. The painted banner will be stored on an acid free cardboard.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/01/2019 - 30/06/2020

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Conservation and material research of a 19th century silk flag from Retie. In the first place a material and historical research will be caried out by the students. The identification and the morphology of the silk fibres will be investigated with the optical microscope. The silk will be cleaned and fragile parts will be supported. A tube will be provided to store the object.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/01/2018 - 30/06/2019

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

Conservation of nineteenth century banner of the Sint Michiel church in Antwerp. The conservation treatment consist in the cleaning of the metal threats and the consolidation of the deteriorated silk medaillons.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)15/09/2017 - 12/07/2018

Funding

• PRIVE - non profit

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

In this project a 18th century costume collection is studied and conserved. The study focusses on historical and material research such as fibre analysis, a technical research of the used techniques and a pattern study.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)01/10/2015 - 30/06/2017

Funding

• PROV/STAD

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project represents a formal research agreement between UA and on the other hand the Flemish Public Service. UA provides the Flemish Public Service research results mentioned in the title of the project under the conditions as stipulated in this contract.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: Bovyn Guy
• Co-promoter: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Antwerp Cultural Heritage Sciences (ARCHES)15/07/2014 - 01/10/2016

Funding

• VL. MIN.

Project type(s)

• Research Project

Abstract

This project aims to understand the use of iron compounds in black dyeing of textiles and the implications on the degradation, conservation (early modern period, Antwerp). Our hypothesis is that despite the prohibition on the cheap and bad dye processes by the crafts, in practice it was much more used than historical sources suggest. Our approach is technological history, as reflected in written sources come forward to confront research on ancient textiles.

Researcher(s)

• Promoter: De Munck Bert
• Co-principal investigator: Ortega Saez Natalia

Research team(s)

• Centre for Urban History01/01/2010 - 31/12/2011

Funding

• BOF

Project type(s)

• Research Project